Korean American

Starred review from March 7, 2022
Drawing heavily from his Atlanta family’s culinary heritage, New York Times food writer Kim maps out the intersection of Korean and American fare in this bold and delicious debut. The two cuisines merge in dishes like cheeseburger kimbap—invented by Kim when he was 13—and his Aunt Georgia’s soy sauce fried chicken with jalapenos. Spam, widely adored in Korea, is the star of such sweet offerings as maple-candied Spam, as well as tangy dishes, including a Spam, kimchi, and cabbage stir-fry. Described as “the bedrock of Korean cuisine,” kimchi gets its due in a chapter that boasts a classic version perfected by Kim’s mother, as well as variations including naengmyeon kimchi made with Korean radish and “large red apple.” Meanwhile, rice forms the foundation for scrumptious and filling bowls such as jjajangbap with cabbage and peas mixed with fermented black bean sauce. While there’s no shortage of meat and fish recipes on offer, vegetables—especially those grown in Kim’s mother’s garden—reign, serving as the inspiration for a chapter of diverse delights, including gochujang-glazed zucchini with fried scallions. Elsewhere, a sprawling Thanksgiving menu (“the ultimate Korean American feast”) substitutes yangnyeom roast chicken for turkey and employs Korean sweet potatoes in a honey-buttered goguma casserole. Old traditions lead to delicious new flavor combinations in this heartfelt collection.